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Everything wrong with my Voron Trident, and sending it to Greece
This is the story of my LDO Rev C Voron Trident 300, a printer I built about two years ago and eventually handed over to a fellow Discord member in Thessaloniki. I go through everything that was wrong with it, from the blemished acrylic panels and the POM lead screw nuts that turned to dust, through the Z probe and gantry levelling problems that came after I swapped in PEEK nuts, to the PTFE tube that keeps getting bent and the tensioner door I hold shut with a rubber band. I list it for sale, fail to sell it, pack it up with zip ties, and arrange for a transport company to drive it from Zurich to Greece, where it gets unpacked, recalibrated and put straight to work.
Description
I should really tell you everything that is wrong with the printer first. There are a couple of minor blemishes on the acrylic panels, some from me being dumb and some from the printer being dumb: the Trident does not have a top hat and the PTFE tube rubbed against the top panel for the first few prints.
Pressure advance and input shaping aside, the printer was producing great prints. Then I started noticing black residue on the Z rods and eventually had a critical failure where the rear Z rod could not carry it anymore. The POM nut had been reduced to dust, and LDO Motors sent me a new set of PEEK nuts, since this was a known issue on their kits. Unfortunately, after replacing the nuts and wiping down the lead screws (the manual originally said to coat the lead screws with lube) the gantry levelling and Z probe accuracy became really crap, especially when heat soaking the machine. Before that I was getting reproducibility way, way more precise than your typical Voron thanks to a CNC Tap v2 from Chaotic Labs and a fine, fine build. I had to turn the Z probe precision way up in the config and basically needed to heat soak the printer even for PLA, otherwise it would fail calibration, so ASA or anything high temp was out of the question.
Back to the PTFE tube: it is really shit. Not only do you need extra parts to stop it rubbing against the top panel, but the gantry moves so much that the tube has to be replaced regularly because it gets bent left and right in the little hole it comes through. The one in there is a Capricorn XS, which I suspect is a little too tight. It never caused printing issues but filament was hell to swap. While doing some hardware debugging, because I kept hearing the problem was a loose screw, I split one of the bed mounts from over tightening it. The tensioner door on the print head will not stay shut anymore either, so I use a rubber band. I printed a replacement latch but given all the other issues I did not deem it necessary to fit, and the design of plastic over metal looked like I would have to replace it again soon anyway.
That aside it is a great machine, and this is how I listed it:
> Assembled Voron Trident 300mm 3D printer (LDO Kit Rev C) in excellent condition. Lightly used and carefully assembled, with upgrades including a CNC Tap v2 probe for precise bed leveling and a Raspberry Pi. The original POM nuts on the Z-axis have been replaced with more durable PEEK nuts (a known improvement over the stock parts). Note: The Raspberry Pi SD card is not included. Input shaping hardware is installed and mounted but will need to be calibrated if necessary when reinstalling Klipper. Local pickup in Zürich only (no shipping).
I put it on Ricardo and on a couple of Discord marketplace channels. I also had one more go at it myself, running a PLA print to see if things still worked, with the first print failing during the Trident's equivalent of quad gantry levelling because the Z precision is just shit. Print quality was more than decent apart from god ugly seams. I can't be bothered to use anything other than PrusaSlicer, and I have been annoyed at it for too long to want to spend any extra time fixing it. I also want to spend more time printing and less time building printers, and it takes up a ton of space.
Nobody asked for it, so Agisilaos and I got the ball rolling on shipping it to Thessaloniki. He found Kallergis, a transport company running the route between Switzerland and Greece, and I gave them the package as 48x48x65 cm and a ballpark 15 to 20 kg, picked up from Dietzingerstrasse 2. I left the bed at mid height to stop the lead screws rattling, tied down the XY carriage and rails and the rear Z rod with white zip ties, removed the Bowden tube, the filament holders and the display so nothing stuck out, and packed the spare hardware that came with the kit into the chamber with padding. I included the blank SD card that came with the kit, the new tensioner latch I never fitted, and half a planter that I only found after I had finished wrapping everything up.
Before he powered it on I warned him that the CNC Tap is non standard, as in my printer.cfg, and that I had to rewire it. It arrived in one piece, and it has been a joy watching it print in someone else's workshop. It turned out the magnets in the Tap were not seated well, and later that the X endstop was oversized, which shifted the assembly about a centimetre and gave Klipper the wrong lead screw coordinates for the tilt. I never precisely set the rod positions because I thought it would not really have an impact, and in hindsight that was a big mistake. Knowing the machine is being used is more than I could ever ask for.
Gallery
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